What is everyone using for component video switches?

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I've got a number of retro consoles hooked up, and the classic problem quickly becomes how to connect all of them to your TV. In my case, I settled on using component cables as my main video standard because they give much better video than composite, but standards like SCART were incredibly rare here.

I'd like to avoid having to plug and unplug in my consoles every time I want to use them, so a while ago I picked up one of these 3 input/1 output switches. They're cheap, easy to find, and for a few years now, it's worked quite well.
OIP-4218714940.jpg


However, I've recently picked up some other systems, or modified some of my existing systems, to use component as well. I've now got about 5 different consoles all vying for the three input spots, with potential for me to add more in the future. What's more is that I have both a CRT and a LCD monitor, and it would be nice to have the option to choose between displays for later 3D consoles.

Which brings me to my question. Aside from that box above, the only other component switch I have been able to find at all is the gcomp 8 input/2 output switch.

gcompsw-1__81741.jpg


On paper, it's everything I want. I could hook up everything I have, both input and output, and still have room to grow. The only problem is that it's over $300. You could buy 10 of those smaller boxes and still have money left over. I cannot in good conscious spend the money on something like that. What are other people using? I have to imagine there's some sort of device out there from the mid-2000s that does exactly what I want, but everything seems to be harder and harder to find these days. I'm somewhat regretting not standardizing to SCART, as those boxes seem readily available, but by the time I re-purchased every cable I had, I could almost (but even then not quite) buy the expensive gcomp box.
 
dont buy a GCOMP unless of 2 things.
1. you have a ton of consoles you frequently switch around
2. have money

I have both the gcomp and the switch box on your image, and for the longest time the box is a great switcher. I frequently jump around consoles after beating one game so the gcomp helps with gaming setups. idk what difference in quality since its all the same looking on my JVC iART. If i was you just use the box. its cheaper and does the job without spending an arm and a leg for something with a little bit more convenience
 
Besides the one you posted (nice, btw, but agree it's a min/max device that is way too spendy) you *could* daisy chain a couple cheaper boxes. I've read doing such can increase latency and signal degradation, though, and this may be exacerbated by going the unpowered route. Not to speak of possible clutter, if that matters.

I have a General Electric Component Switch (Model# 73344). It's unpowered and works fine for years, but my component switching needs have always been modest. For all I know it was just good enough compared to composite that I never noticed any deficiencies in using a (cheap) switch.
 
I've got a number of retro consoles hooked up, and the classic problem quickly becomes how to connect all of them to your TV. In my case, I settled on using component cables as my main video standard because they give much better video than composite, but standards like SCART were incredibly rare here.

I'd like to avoid having to plug and unplug in my consoles every time I want to use them, so a while ago I picked up one of these 3 input/1 output switches. They're cheap, easy to find, and for a few years now, it's worked quite well.
View attachment 107049

However, I've recently picked up some other systems, or modified some of my existing systems, to use component as well. I've now got about 5 different consoles all vying for the three input spots, with potential for me to add more in the future. What's more is that I have both a CRT and a LCD monitor, and it would be nice to have the option to choose between displays for later 3D consoles.

Which brings me to my question. Aside from that box above, the only other component switch I have been able to find at all is the gcomp 8 input/2 output switch.

View attachment 107052

On paper, it's everything I want. I could hook up everything I have, both input and output, and still have room to grow. The only problem is that it's over $300. You could buy 10 of those smaller boxes and still have money left over. I cannot in good conscious spend the money on something like that. What are other people using? I have to imagine there's some sort of device out there from the mid-2000s that does exactly what I want, but everything seems to be harder and harder to find these days. I'm somewhat regretting not standardizing to SCART, as those boxes seem readily available, but by the time I re-purchased every cable I had, I could almost (but even then not quite) buy the expensive gcomp box.
Previously, I also used cheap switches when I plugged into an old TV with a component input, then another inexpensive adapter with HDMI - one in a metal case fell to pieces after six months, outwardly similar in a plastic one has been living for many years. RCA connectors demonstrate resistance to repeated connections and mechanical stress. For old consoles, I also have an old CRT TV, but to be honest, the best way to save both TV and console is to play through an emulator on a computer :) And for authenticity, I use other switches - FOR GAMEPADS to connect the original gamepads of different consoles to the computer.
We can talk a lot about the fact that emulation spoils the picture and sound and etc, but connecting an ancient console with any (expensive too) switch to a modern TV via an active RCA-HDMI does not make the picture authentic EITHER. And sound too.
 
I mostly use S-video for my analog consoles. For a CRT the difference between component is negligible, the cables are much cheaper too. However the switchbox I use also has component (though they're shared on the S-video inputs so they don't see any use from me). This thing is great. Unlike a lot of other switchers I've tried, this ones doesn't add any perceivable noise. (I'll never use another cheap passive box again) It even switches sources automatically. Has 5 inputs, with one on the front if you still need to swap (SNES, Genesis(modded), Saturn, PS1, then NES(modded), N64 and Gameboy Player share the front slot). Problem is, I don't think this thing is in production anymore so you either have to find one second hand or some old stock like I did (found it an Amazon brand new, and yes this dusty ass picture is the one on the store page :loldog )

Legend LE316R

1757038331388.png

It really is hard to find a good S video switch box. None of these aftermarket retro companies seem to make one and only focus on scart and component.
Only consoles I use component for are PS2 and PC Engine, and I just switch them manually when needed. (oh and I guess the Wii too, but it's plugged into a different monitor, and my OG Xbox just uses an HDMI adapter). For Dreamcast I use VGA but occasionally have to switch to S video for the games that don't support it.
 
Besides the one you posted (nice, btw, but agree it's a min/max device that is way too spendy) you *could* daisy chain a couple cheaper boxes. I've read doing such can increase latency and signal degradation, though, and this may be exacerbated by going the unpowered route. Not to speak of possible clutter, if that matters.
I did think about this, but between having two cable manage three boxes, plus the potential signal degradation between them, it didn't seem viable. Maybe if I found one that had two outputs so I didn't have to touch any cables at all I'd think about it.
 
Huh I only have an HDMI converter outfitted for my PlayStations, even allows me to pick the ratio, I didn't think about my Wii. ::nervous-prinny
Problem is sound isn't as smooth as it should be but optical should be used anyway. (picture for reference, not my model but the set up is the same)
1757053950938.png


I do still have a component box for 4 devices but the probability of having all those wired for ready to go usage is 0% with my space set up and a untrustworthy cat. As much as it would be nicer to have a proper CRT for older PlayStations it might be better to just as good to have a back up system to upscale to HDMI if only to keep playing when you move and your cousin drops your fat TV in the driveway before it hits the truck. ::pikachu-sleep
 
just this wee thing. it's cheap but it does the job pretty well, i can connect my laptop to my crt and i'm quite happy with that
1757062489382.png
 
I never bothered on component switches because I've never found one that does not add interferences to the other sources, as I am extremely picky. Good analog stuff costs tons of money, and sincerely component is a source aimed at LCD TV's mainly, so using a console that outputs up to 480p with a LCD is like getting crappy image for me.

Best is to get a SCART cables online then use a CRT TV. You are not getting better image than that. Messing with tons of stuff, upscalers, image processors and other tools, investing a lot of money in the process is useless, just to push yourself to use a modern TV. Very good condition CRT's are not very expensive.
 
I never bothered on component switches because I've never found one that does not add interferences to the other sources, as I am extremely picky.
I never seen interference when using switches much less delay. Have you tried not having more than one console one at a time?
Good analog stuff costs tons of money, and sincerely component is a source aimed at LCD TV's mainly, so using a console that outputs up to 480p with a LCD is like getting crappy image for me.
wha? I run component on my consoles on a JVC 27'. idk any nutjob would use component on a LCD display much less use a LCD display for older consoles without a OSSC or Retrotink.
Best is to get a SCART cables online then use a CRT TV. You are not getting better image than that. Messing with tons of stuff, upscalers, image processors and other tools, investing a lot of money in the process is useless, just to push yourself to use a modern TV. Very good condition CRT's are not very expensive.
Good luck finding a SCART television in the USA without paying 900+ on import charges or the risk of it getting destroyed via customs.
 
Good luck finding a SCART television in the USA without paying 900+ on import charges or the risk of it getting destroyed via customs.
I was going to say, I have never in my life seen a TV with a SCART connection in North America. I didn't even know they existed until I saw retro enthusiasts talking about it.
 
I was going to say, I have never in my life seen a TV with a SCART connection in North America. I didn't even know they existed until I saw retro enthusiasts talking about it.
the quality is on-par with component, ive seen them from a CRT Collector in my area besides me and it's kind of cool to look at. Only real benefit is that its a one connection besides the semi-tedious 5 plugs i got to plug in with component.
 
I never seen interference when using switches much less delay. Have you tried not having more than one console one at a time?

wha? I run component on my consoles on a JVC 27'. idk any nutjob would use component on a LCD display much less use a LCD display for older consoles without a OSSC or Retrotink.

Good luck finding a SCART television in the USA without paying 900+ on import charges or the risk of it getting destroyed via customs.
No no, delay is perfectly fine, it's analog so there is virtually zero delay. But that's exactly what I meant, if I have 2 consoles at once they cause interferences. I know it is not needed to have 2 consoles turned on at once, but just knowing they cause interferences makes me crazy.

Do you have a flat face CRT? JVC TV's used to be very good and you're right, many of them had component inputs. I believe CRT TV's after 2000 included component input more commonly, but anyways it was not common, at least in Europe. Maybe 20% of TV's would include them, specially big screens 25"+, and the rest would include the composite and 1 or 2 scart. For instance, my TV is a Samsung SlimFit 21" and it does include 1 side composite, 1 back composite and 2 scart ports, being one of them s-video compatible as full-scart. But the same model with 27" does have component and drops one scart.

My dream has been always to get the Samsung SlimFit 32" HD model, which includes HDMI port and it's 720p. I've seen it only once in a store display and it looked wonderful. I've never seen any other CRT with 720p panel in my life.

Image upscalers are costly. I've seen decent ones for 70-80€, RetroScaler is the cheapest one for around 40€ but it does not include scart input, and in my area and specially in my home everything is scart, I have a couple of component cables but they came bundled in second hand consoles I bought, never used them, so it is not an option. In addition, I never found these necessary as playing consoles without HDMI out means using a CRT, so no upscaler is needed.

But I am surprised, I never thought TV's in America were so poorly internationalized. S-video was the thing in there but even so, in Europe many TV's include S-Video anyways. So lucky component got broadly implemented at least.

the quality is on-par with component, ive seen them from a CRT Collector in my area besides me and it's kind of cool to look at. Only real benefit is that its a one connection besides the semi-tedious 5 plugs i got to plug in with component.
Actually, scart plugs are kind of picky, and good cables are advised. Unlike component, you can end buying a bad quality scart that does not implement RGB, so you have composite quality with that unless you modify it with a resistance and a pair of wires, been there :(.
 
No no, delay is perfectly fine, it's analog so there is virtually zero delay. But that's exactly what I meant, if I have 2 consoles at once they cause interferences. I know it is not needed to have 2 consoles turned on at once, but just knowing they cause interferences makes me crazy.

Do you have a flat face CRT? JVC TV's used to be very good and you're right, many of them had component inputs. I believe CRT TV's after 2000 included component input more commonly, but anyways it was not common, at least in Europe. Maybe 20% of TV's would include them, specially big screens 25"+, and the rest would include the composite and 1 or 2 scart. For instance, my TV is a Samsung SlimFit 21" and it does include 1 side composite, 1 back composite and 2 scart ports, being one of them s-video compatible as full-scart. But the same model with 27" does have component and drops one scart.

My dream has been always to get the Samsung SlimFit 32" HD model, which includes HDMI port and it's 720p. I've seen it only once in a store display and it looked wonderful. I've never seen any other CRT with 720p panel in my life.

Image upscalers are costly. I've seen decent ones for 70-80€, RetroScaler is the cheapest one for around 40€ but it does not include scart input, and in my area and specially in my home everything is scart, I have a couple of component cables but they came bundled in second hand consoles I bought, never used them, so it is not an option. In addition, I never found these necessary as playing consoles without HDMI out means using a CRT, so no upscaler is needed.

But I am surprised, I never thought TV's in America were so poorly internationalized. S-video was the thing in there but even so, in Europe many TV's include S-Video anyways. So lucky component got broadly implemented at least.


Actually, scart plugs are kind of picky, and good cables are advised. Unlike component, you can end buying a bad quality scart that does not implement RGB, so you have composite quality with that unless you modify it with a resistance and a pair of wires, been there :(.
I had a Panasonic Tau 720p HD CRT wide TV and from playing ps3 games on it. Its really not worth it. I mean games after 2008-9 started to have skinnier text so it was harder to read it. Imo using a component 4:3 CRT for older consoles is where its at
 
I mostly use S-video for my analog consoles. For a CRT the difference between component is negligible, the cables are much cheaper too. However the switchbox I use also has component (though they're shared on the S-video inputs so they don't see any use from me). This thing is great. Unlike a lot of other switchers I've tried, this ones doesn't add any perceivable noise. (I'll never use another cheap passive box again) It even switches sources automatically. Has 5 inputs, with one on the front if you still need to swap (SNES, Genesis(modded), Saturn, PS1, then NES(modded), N64 and Gameboy Player share the front slot). Problem is, I don't think this thing is in production anymore so you either have to find one second hand or some old stock like I did (found it an Amazon brand new, and yes this dusty ass picture is the one on the store page :loldog )

Legend LE316R

View attachment 107073
These are the exact ones I'm using and I'm using mostly S-video too. I got the last 3 available in my country since they're so good. Only issue I had was one really specific oddity where if I had one plugged into another since my TV only has one S-video input, if the screen ever went mostly white it'd cause the image to scroll vertically so I had to put them both through an unpowered switch before going into my TV. I'm guessing bright white image signal via 2 powered video switches via S-video causes an image glitch.
 
I had a Panasonic Tau 720p HD CRT wide TV and from playing ps3 games on it. Its really not worth it. I mean games after 2008-9 started to have skinnier text so it was harder to read it. Imo using a component 4:3 CRT for older consoles is where its at
Yeah, don't tell me! the first time I played Lost Odyssey on my CRT TV I couldn't read the text properly, but my TV is 576i. But anyways, that's actually a poor implementation on videogames, because these consoles have analog out as well, so they should support bigger fonts for CRT TV's.
 
These are the exact ones I'm using and I'm using mostly S-video too. I got the last 3 available in my country since they're so good. Only issue I had was one really specific oddity where if I had one plugged into another since my TV only has one S-video input, if the screen ever went mostly white it'd cause the image to scroll vertically so I had to put them both through an unpowered switch before going into my TV. I'm guessing bright white image signal via 2 powered video switches via S-video causes an image glitch.
Nice, I'd love to have a second one. I had some scrolling happen too. I thought it was my TV but now that you bring it up I never did try plugging straight in. It only ever happened when using the Dreamcast. When I upgraded to VGA I had to switch it to a different monitor, so it kinda made it a none issue. It only ever happened in a handful of games and it was very brief when it did.
 
Yeah, don't tell me! the first time I played Lost Odyssey on my CRT TV I couldn't read the text properly, but my TV is 576i. But anyways, that's actually a poor implementation on videogames, because these consoles have analog out as well, so they should support bigger fonts for CRT TV's.
That was a complaint back when Dead Rising came out on the Xbox 360. People were still using CRT television up to 2009 and got phased out of homes around 2010. My friend back in high school was playing Halo 3 on a CRT back in the day. Good times. Besides most CRT cant even output at 720p its mostly at 720i.
 
I use to have this absolutely MASSIVE Wega Trinitron that was like 200 pounds, had an HDMI port and supported 720p and 1080i. It was 4:3. Came home one day with it smashed on my floor. Was so heavy it broke the solid wooden stand it was on. 😭
Been using an average 32" Trinitron from the mid 90s ever since. Only has S video so that's what I primarily use.
 
I use to have this absolutely MASSIVE Wega Trinitron that was like 200 pounds, had an HDMI port and supported 720p and 1080i. It was 4:3. Came home one day with it smashed on my floor. Was so heavy it broke the solid wooden stand it was on. 😭
Been using an average 32" Trinitron from the mid 90s ever since. Only has S video so that's what I primarily use.
A 720p CRT TV that is 4:3 screen format? that is very very very strange. It makes no sense, since a 720p panel is only panoramic. The Sony Wega TV's I am familiar with were 1080i but 540p through HDMI or DVI inputs, but the resolution was not panoramic in 4:3 format, only the 16:9 TV's. I never cared to get one because strangely they suffered from input lag as Sony had the brilliant idea to add a preprocessor for the image, like modern TV's do. I even tested one and the image quality was very good but I freaked out because of that, input lag in a CRT TV was like seeing an unicorn lol.
 
Used to have a neato screen with both HDMI and tricolor cables, it was a beast to play Wii, unfortunately it croaked and i have to use a weirdass box with way too thick cables and a irresponsive button that if i as much as sneeze the signal dies, currently saving for a better screen
 
A 720p CRT TV that is 4:3 screen format? that is very very very strange. It makes no sense, since a 720p panel is only panoramic. The Sony Wega TV's I am familiar with were 1080i but 540p through HDMI or DVI inputs, but the resolution was not panoramic in 4:3 format, only the 16:9 TV's. I never cared to get one because strangely they suffered from input lag as Sony had the brilliant idea to add a preprocessor for the image, like modern TV's do. I even tested one and the image quality was very good but I freaked out because of that, input lag in a CRT TV was like seeing an unicorn lol.
ya it was a lucky marketplace find, haven't seen another since. Quick google search doesn't bring it up either. I can promise you though, it was real. I distinctly remember playing my PS3 through the HDMI 1080i letterboxed in like 2012. I would sometimes switch the PS3 to 480p just so it would fill the whole screen.
 

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